Register Now for FREE

HairdressingWorld Forums


  • Advertisement

Working out which volume of peroxide to use

This is the general hairdressing chat area for you to discuss anything related to our wonderful trade!

Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby Hannahallen » 24 Sep 2008 12:42 pm

Hi,

Does anyone know if there are any guides on using the different volumes of peroxide.

I always use 6% on tints (1-2 levels lighter or darker) and with bleach.

9% (foils) on bases of 5-6-7 when using an 8 or 9 (to create golden highlights)

12% with high lift tints.

Is this correct?

What do other people use?

If I am just changing the tone of a colour and not lightening should I only use 3% will that be strong enough?

I was also told recently to stop using 12% with my high lift tints as it blasts the hair too much and to use 9% instead - but can you still get the lift?

Some new clients of mine are all for hi-lift and not bleach and I am struggling to find a tint that lifts enough! HELP!!
Hannahallen
HairdressingWorld Newbie
HairdressingWorld Newbie
 
Posts: 20
Joined: 24 Sep 2008 12:28 pm
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 0 time

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby presotto » 24 Sep 2008 02:29 pm

I can\'t speak for others but here is what I do.

When foiling and wanting minimal lift I will use 1.5% - 3% and watch for the level of lift I want.

Now I also use 3% with bleach to foil, and can get it to a palest blonde in about 45 min. trick is to apply it thickly.

As for tinting I use 12% and half the peroxide amount. So if your using 30gm of tint and 30gm of 6% try using 30gm of tint and 15gm of 12% much better condition for the hair less banding and avoids hot roots.

With Highlift tint if your using a double 9% or a double 12% that is 30gm tint and 60gm peroxide, try this mixture, 30gm tint and 30gm of 18% or for higher lift 30gm of 24%. The results can be quite amazing.

What you are doing with these formulas is concentating the peroxides. And creating a working volume closer to what you should be using without the damage of excessive amounts of peroxide.
"I get my kicks ABOVE the waistline, SUNSHINE!"
presotto
HdW Panel of Experts
HdW Panel of Experts
 
Posts: 175
Joined: 24 Jul 2007 06:23 am
Has thanked: 34 times
Been thanked: 20 times
Years Hairdressing: 44

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby Hannahallen » 24 Sep 2008 03:19 pm

I never ever measure of peroxide I was never taught to - but have got away with it for years! Just pour it in!
Would you use 18% on the scalp?????? Can you explain hot roots? Haven\'t heard this terminology before. So using too much peroxide (mls) within a formula can damage?
Hannahallen
HairdressingWorld Newbie
HairdressingWorld Newbie
 
Posts: 20
Joined: 24 Sep 2008 12:28 pm
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 0 time

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby Hannahallen » 24 Sep 2008 03:28 pm

Must sound awful but have never realised the importance of measuring peroxide. However I would never use anything higher than 6% on the scalp except with special blondes. Can anyone answer the other questions above?
Hannahallen
HairdressingWorld Newbie
HairdressingWorld Newbie
 
Posts: 20
Joined: 24 Sep 2008 12:28 pm
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 0 time

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby jazz » 24 Sep 2008 06:51 pm

Hannahallen wrote:Hi,


If I am just changing the tone of a colour and not lightening should I only use 3% will that be strong enough?



If 3% is for adding color only. It will not lift but only deposit.
I know the levels by Volume not %.

yes it will be strong enough.
As Presotto stated, you don;t have to use such strong developers to achieve the color you want.
If you are finding that the color line you are using is not achieving the lift you want. either question the level you are trying to lift from or get another color line.

I would say generally speaking that you are not going to achieve a nice soft light blonde from any highlift if the NL is a 5 or below.
You need to learn the rules before you can break them
jazz
Official Site Leader
Official Site Leader
 
Posts: 932
Joined: 08 Nov 2006 03:16 am
Location: Washington
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 8 times

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby Jeni Giles » 24 Sep 2008 10:29 pm

Here is what we give our students as a guide-
10 vol or 3% can lighten upto 1 level but will mostly deposit. Excellent for tint back, grey blending/coverage and depositing.

20 vol 6% grey coverage, lightening and depositing in equal amounts.

30 vol 9% up to 3 levels lightening almost no deposit, generally used for highlighting or lightening on levels 7 and above

40 vol or 12% upto 4 levels lighter (5-7 when used with bleach) little or no deposit and is often used for highlighting dark bases or for highlift tinting.

Some color lines have additives or boosters that can increase the amount of lift you can achieve with lower developers. Check your manufacturer\'s directions and see if there isn\'t something in your color line that will fit the bill.
Jeni Giles
HdW Panel of Experts
HdW Panel of Experts
 
Posts: 265
Joined: 28 Sep 2007 02:37 pm
Has thanked: 5 times
Been thanked: 22 times

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby sizzorwizzard » 25 Sep 2008 12:52 am

EEEK!!!! Stop that madness.. Ten volume for deposit only and grey coverage.. Twenty volume for difficult grey and one level of lift. Thirty volume for three levels of lift and always use 40 vol with High lift.. I do not care what you have been told that wich you were told was wrong. Now always rember where your starting and to where it is your going. Taking into concideration what you are dealing with as primary residual pigment and or artificial pigment... Always have a plan.. Yes a high lift can rough up the cuticle. Be wise and always ask for advice if it dose not settle well with your process.... Good job for asking there is no stupid questions just bad results from bad Judgement...
sizzorwizzard
HairdressingWorld Junior Member
HairdressingWorld Junior Member
 
Posts: 63
Joined: 12 Jul 2008 03:06 am
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 2 times

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby sizzorwizzard » 25 Sep 2008 12:55 am

Jeni Giles is absolutly right....
sizzorwizzard
HairdressingWorld Junior Member
HairdressingWorld Junior Member
 
Posts: 63
Joined: 12 Jul 2008 03:06 am
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 2 times

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby jazz » 25 Sep 2008 02:37 am

sizzorwizzard wrote: Ten volume for deposit only and grey coverage.. Twenty volume for difficult grey and one level of lift. Thirty volume for three levels of lift


Okay Micheal ~so you say:

10v =0 lift?
20v = 1 level lift?
30v =3 level lift?

Where in the heck is 2 levels of lift?
and how come you don\'t have any lift but only deposit? from 10v??:blink:
You need to learn the rules before you can break them
jazz
Official Site Leader
Official Site Leader
 
Posts: 932
Joined: 08 Nov 2006 03:16 am
Location: Washington
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 8 times

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby sizzorwizzard » 25 Sep 2008 11:34 am

You are right Jazz. 20 vol can lift more than one level and thirty can be used for less than three. It all breaks down to what target level is and how you formulate the color.
sizzorwizzard
HairdressingWorld Junior Member
HairdressingWorld Junior Member
 
Posts: 63
Joined: 12 Jul 2008 03:06 am
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 2 times

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby chris the limey » 25 Sep 2008 11:48 am

I have always \"generally\" used the following rules:

10 vol - 1 level of lift or less
20 vol - 2 levels of lift
30 vol - 3 levels of lift
40 vol - 4 levels of lift

If using a cool tone, and you want the cool tone to appear (e.g. ash), increase the peroxide by one strength (e.g. natural base 6 to 8.1, use 8.1 and 30 vol instead of 8.1 and 20 vol.

If lifting natural levels 1-4, increase the strength of the peroxide by 1 level.

If colouring with a red tone, drop the peroxide by one level to increase luminosity and prevent fading.

-----

That\'s my basic \"general\" rule of thumb that I teach my trainees.

And then afterwards, I break it all back down again and teach them the tricks and tips ;)
-----
I try to get online to answer forum posts at least once per day. If I miss your post, let me know. :)
chris the limey
HdW Panel of Experts
HdW Panel of Experts
 
Posts: 1501
Joined: 08 Nov 2006 03:16 am
Has thanked: 50 times
Been thanked: 77 times

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby sizzorwizzard » 25 Sep 2008 11:48 am

!0 vol 0 to 1 level of lift.
20 vol 1 to 2 level of lift.
30 vol 2 to 3 level of lift.
40 vol 3 to 5 levelof lift.

All depending on how you formulate.
sizzorwizzard
HairdressingWorld Junior Member
HairdressingWorld Junior Member
 
Posts: 63
Joined: 12 Jul 2008 03:06 am
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 2 times

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby chris the limey » 25 Sep 2008 11:52 am

and remember...20vol can lift upto 7 levels with bleach!

Woo Hoo
-----
I try to get online to answer forum posts at least once per day. If I miss your post, let me know. :)
chris the limey
HdW Panel of Experts
HdW Panel of Experts
 
Posts: 1501
Joined: 08 Nov 2006 03:16 am
Has thanked: 50 times
Been thanked: 77 times

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby haircut60 » 22 Oct 2008 09:22 pm

The whole point of measuring is to get consistent results. If you \'just throw in the peroxide\' you could get a different result each time AND the tint will fade more quickly. Some of you people need help !
haircut60
HairdressingWorld Member
HairdressingWorld Member
 
Posts: 119
Joined: 22 Oct 2008 08:58 pm
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 9 times

Re:Working out which volume of peroxide to use

Postby jazz » 23 Oct 2008 02:26 am

haircut60 wrote: Some of you people need help !


I realize you are new on here and maybe need a bit of direction.
We give advice and learn from each other..but in a "nice " Way. With out the little comments like you made.
We thank you for not taking jabs here. We are all here to learn, just some more than others.:)

But just out of curiosity,apparently there is a post that you disagree with. so.. Who were you pertaining to that some need help?
You need to learn the rules before you can break them
jazz
Official Site Leader
Official Site Leader
 
Posts: 932
Joined: 08 Nov 2006 03:16 am
Location: Washington
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 8 times

Next

Return to General Hairdressing Chat



 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 25 guests