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Going from Level 4 to caramel

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Going from Level 4 to caramel

Postby luvinmyhair » 03 Nov 2010 09:44 pm

Ok, here is my question. I have a lot of clients with level 4 hair, and they want their base lifted and highlights on top of it all.

They basically want a JLo look

http://celebritynews.typepad.com/.a/6a0 ... 970c-500wi

I am lost on how to get them there. Most of them have previously colored ends (1-2 shades lighter than NL, or BLACK COLOR!!!! (eeeeeeeeek!!!) and 2-3 inches of regrowth. I want to know the EASIEST, most effective way to get them to their target color.

Most of the time I highlight with Blondor and use Goldwell 6N 20Vol. for the base. Im just not happy with the results. Im used to working with clients that have NL7 and want highlights (blondor or 11 series goldwell) so I need any advice I can get working with DARK levels! Thanks!!! :)
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Re: Going from Level 4 to caramel

Postby chris the limey » 04 Nov 2010 12:14 pm

I can see 2 options...one for the clients who are previously coloured to a level 4 or 5, and another for the clients who are previously coloured black.

For the easiest option, you might need to change from Goldwell and over to Matrix so that you can use their Color.Graphics line.

On a client with previous level 4 tint, apply ColorSync 5M as a full head colour for 20 minutes. If they have level 5 tint, use 6M and so on.

After development, remove, and mix Color.Graphics with the Mocha pigment - you'll need 2 batches...one with 8 vol promoter and one with 22 vol promoter. Apply as balayage highlights, using the 8 vol mixture at the root and the 22 vol mixture throughout the lengths and ends. Also, do some random strands with only 8 vol mixture, and then around the front, some with only the 22 vol mixture.

Leave under heat for 12 minutes and then you're done. Goodbye Janice Dickinson, hello J.Lo.

For the clients who have black coloured hair, you need to pre-lighten them to red/orange and then follow the directions above using 6M ColorSync. This would be classed as a colour correction and could take a few hours. Make sure you cover your costs and add the appropriate amount of profit for your wages.

That's how I would do it anyway. :)
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