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breaking the base?

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breaking the base?

Postby njckcc » 29 Sep 2008 01:14 am

ive been taught or should i say unofficially taught to break the base using color? but my question is what is the best product to use? ratios what do u recommend .please help this is a new concept to me:ohmy: :ohmy:
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby chris the limey » 30 Sep 2008 01:37 am

Jazz..Soph...Jeni...SYL..any of the americans care to answer this?
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby jazz » 30 Sep 2008 01:55 am

But chris...syl explained to you how to break the base in chat..remember? :D
You need to learn the rules before you can break them
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby chris the limey » 30 Sep 2008 02:14 am

LOL Jazz. Very funny.

I\'m afraid that I still don\'t undertand it enough.

Something about mixing a level 8 colour and applying it real quick to a level 6 roots while you are trying to get the foils out (or was it afterwards?) and then wash it all off.

I remember asking SYL why I couldn\'t just get my assitant to apply a 7.3 semi inbetween the foils while they develop, and that Jeni Giles said she\'d do some pics for me when she\'s settled in to her new house.

But alas, it still makes as much sense to me as volunteering to be a participant in a game of russian roulette - I just haven\'t got the confidence.

;)
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby jazz » 30 Sep 2008 03:56 am

Sorry Njckcc

I have only done it with color. Bleach has a tendency to move too fast for me. But I suppose you could try it with bleach and water? or 10V?
You would use the same ratio as the color recommends it is the processing time and developer you use that is most important
You need to learn the rules before you can break them
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby Jeni Giles » 30 Sep 2008 03:15 pm

You can use all kinds of things to do the job, you have to find the tool you are most comfortable with for the task at hand. I really like LuoColor 10N at the shampoo bowl, I keep it in stock JUST for this, before that we used a blue or violet based color from our Joico line 2-3 levels above the natural at the shampoo bowl for 5-7 min.

One of my friends swears by using clairol\'s Insta Whip 1/2 ounce, 1/4 packette activator and 1 oz 10 volume cream developer.

We have also used 1 scoop Blazing hair ultra light booster concentrate, 1 oz oil and 1 oz 10 volume to break the bases. I still find myself reaching for the Luo 10N when working with students, it gives them just a little more time and I know that it can\'t lighten more than 3 levels even if they did leave it on too long. (I have to make sure my safety net is big enough and strong enough to catch a student mistake and provide a rescue for me should we need to \"fix\")

Some additonal hints for breaking bases, stay with your deeper levels, don\'t try and break the base of a 8,9 or 10- there really isn\'t a need unless you are doing a very heavy highlight that is a platinum color. Don\'t leave it on longer than 10 minutes, you really should be done in 5-7 min.
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby SYL » 01 Oct 2008 02:42 am

As Jeni says:
You can use all kinds of things to do the job, you have to find the tool you are most comfortable with for the task at hand.

Basically your only looking to lift 1/2 lev.

When I was first taught to Break Base, it was with, Redken\'s Shades Above {which is no longer available} and we applied this between heavy foil applications to help blend the highlights in better to make it look more natural.

Now I will use a clear with 10 vol. porox.
I apply it quickly at the sink with brush and bowl [some find using the applicator bottle easier] starting at the nape.
By the time I finish with front, I start pulling the foils out of the back section and work it through with my hands a bit, then start rinsing in the back. The whole process from beginning to end is about 10 min. Your not try to really lift much at all with this, that\'s why its don\'t so fast. You don\'t want to bring up any of the natural underlying pigments, that\'s why you don\'t leave it on very long.

That\'s just the basic clear shine method.
There\'s many more formulations that can be used with color or with adding a demi like Shades EQ or PM shines.
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby jazz » 01 Oct 2008 03:17 pm

question..would bleach with water do the same effect?
You need to learn the rules before you can break them
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby rwp » 01 Oct 2008 04:00 pm

ummmm just one question...... what is breaking the base, i have never heard of it before but it sounds cool lol is there any links or can anyone explain what it it/what effects it gives.
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby SYL » 01 Oct 2008 08:14 pm

I\'ve never tried it with that Jazz.
I suppose it would work, but maybe a bit thick to work quickly with?
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby jazz » 01 Oct 2008 08:40 pm

rwp wrote:ummmm just one question...... what is breaking the base, i have never heard of it before but it sounds cool lol is there any links or can anyone explain what it it/what effects it gives.



SYLS SAYS:
to help blend the highlights in better to make it look more natural.


To better understand all of the theory on it RWP, go to the beginning of the thread and read thru all the posts.
Syl explained in her post what it is, how it works and the effects you get from doing it.
You need to learn the rules before you can break them
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby SYL » 01 Oct 2008 08:59 pm

My post above was just for what I do to break the base in Highlighting.
There are other ways and reasons to break the base. If you have a client with a natural low level and she wants a bit more vibrant red, by breaking the base of her color it will hold the red better.
But, if you want to bring out more of the red/orange under tones of the lower natural levels, you would leave a lightening product on longer and watch it very careful til you see the change. This is not breaking the base when you do this. This is pre-lightening.
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby glamour » 01 Oct 2008 10:36 pm

I have done this method before with bleach long before I knew there was a name for this. Some will scream don\'t use bleach but anything will work as long as you know when to take it off. Color is easier to put on and doesn\'t lift as quickly (more control). All you are doing is just \"Taking the dirt out.\" You are slightly warming the base so that it blends better against the blond and appears lighter. Most women hate there natural color especially mousy brown/blonds. Most people use color with a N or Ash base to help control warmth. It works pretty much the same but then you have to be careful as to not get it on the previous highlights. Not only that to me there isn\'t enough time for the color to really grab on and stay in the hair so what they see now might not be there when they return. I like SYL\'s method the best with the clear because I don\'t have to worry about protecting the rest of the hair and the color I see now is the same color it will be when they return.
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby Jeni Giles » 02 Oct 2008 12:02 am

as promised pics of before and after breaking base natural level 5 bleach w/ 10 and 20 vol highlights then break base to soften the line. Used LuoColor 10N @ shampoo bowl for about 7 min. Image
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Re:breaking the base?

Postby Jeni Giles » 02 Oct 2008 12:06 am

after Image
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