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Application of a full-head bleach

Application of a full-head bleach

Postby chris the limey » 22 Oct 2010 03:48 pm

1 Assemble equipment and materials.
2 Protect the client's clothing with tinting gown, towels, etc. Ensure that the towel is tucked firmly into the nape.
3 Disentangle the hair and check scalp for cuts and abrasions.
4 Ensure that the client's hair is free from grease or heavy lacquer. If this is so, shampoo gently with a mild soapless (or lacquer removing) shampoo, then dry.
5 Divide the head into six major sections (forehead to nape, ear to ear across the top and ear to ear across the back).
6 Apply barrier cream around the hairline, ensuring that it is applied to the skin only.
7 Mix the bleach with the hydrogen peroxide, according to the manufacturer's instructions.
8 Commence application at the nape (unless more resistant elsewhere) and apply the bleach mixture evenly to the mid-lengths and points, if the hair is short, mid-lengths only if the hair is long (see Fig 2.74). Allow approximately 10 mm (1/2") untreated hair at the roots to counteract the body heat which will develop the bleach more quickly. In the case of long hair, the points are usually more porous and will therefore develop more quickly.
9 Continue applying the bleach in this manner through from sections 1 to 6, in the correct order. Care must be taken to prevent the bleached areas touching the roots, otherwise the result will be patchy. To avoid this, strips of cotton wool may be placed between the sub-sections.
10 When the application is complete, gently work the bleach into the hair with the fingers to ensure that the bleach has penetrated each section. Extreme care must be taken at this stage to prevent the bleach touching the root area. In the case of long hair the bleach is now applied to the points of the hair in the same order as before, i.e. commencing at the nape through to the front area, unless the hair is more resistant elsewhere.
11 Check through the application to ensure that all sections are evenly and thoroughly covered.
12 Await bleach development, checking frequently taking a strand test. If the hair is not the correct shade, re-apply bleach to the strand of hair that has been checked. When the desired shade has almost been reached, mix up a fresh bleach and apply to the root areas as quickly as possible (work in the same order as previously).
13 Check that all the hair has been completely and evenly covered by crosschecking across the sections. Gently lift the hair out from the head to allow the air to circulate.
14 Await development, checking frequently using a strand test.
15 When the hair is an even shade throughout the entire length of the hair shaft, remove the bleach by rinsing thoroughly in tepid water. It is very important that all the bleach is completely removed from the hair.
16 Apply a mild acid balance or cream shampoo and massage the head gently. Rinse the hair thoroughly and repeat.
17 Apply a mild acid balance conditioner to counteract the alkalinity of the bleach and prevent creeping oxidation. Rinse the hair thoroughly using warm water.
18 Towel dry the hair and disentangle.
19 Apply a temporary rinse or toner to neutralise any unwanted golden or brassy tones. If a toner containing a 'para' compound is used the client must have had a skin test 24-48 hours previously to ensure that there is no allergy to this type of tint.
20 Complete a record of work carried out and advise the client on after-care.
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chris the limey
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